Modern, Pretty Makeup for 40+ Skin
Journal

Modern, Pretty Makeup for 40+ Skin

Plus One Radical Thing I'm Doing this Holiday Season

I am one of those people who loves the holidays. As a kid, my mom made them absolute magic with sledding parties, gingerbread houses, decorated trees in every room, and steaming hot chocolate. As a grown-up, my calendar is typically booked with events: Christmas programs, tree-trimming parties, book club get-togethers, and the occasional festivity that calls for getting dressed up. But this year I’ve decided to do something radical (at least for me). I said no to everything — every invitation — save for the traditions I’ve created with my family.

Holiday family traditions with my kids are some of my favorite memories!
Holiday family traditions with my kids are some of my favorite memories!

Why? In this season of life where I’m pulled in so many different directions — caregiving, one kid launched in college and another nearly there, a new business — it felt right to create some boundaries around my time. At some point, you realize you can’t do everything without sacrificing yourself.

While I’m happily cozied up at home this season, I know many of you are heading joyously into sparkle season, so I decided to tackle a topic that brings many women unnecessary angst this time of year — holiday makeup. 

My entire life I’ve been a “just a mascara and lip gloss girl,” but in the past few years I’ve been interested in understanding the mechanics of applying makeup properly and choosing the right colors — not because I think I need it — but because it’s empowering to know you’re wearing the perfect lipstick when you walk into a meeting or a luncheon. Makeup in perimenopause can come with a learning curve. How do you look modern — and sometimes special-occasion fancy — while experiencing perimenopause skin symptoms?

The Interview

I reached out to Desirae Cherman, who is exceedingly talented at many things, but one of them happens to be lovely makeup on 40+ skin, for a few tips and tricks. (Clients Minnie Driver, Priyanka Chopra, and Kristen Bell concur.) Here’s what I learned:

Q: How important is skin prep to your final look?
“Crucial — especially if you have any dryness, texture, or redness that comes with declining estrogen levels in perimenopause. Skin prep is everything for achieving a flawless makeup look, especially for a big event. The night before, I recommend a gentle exfoliation to remove dead skin cells, followed by a hydrating mask to plump up the skin. On the day of, start with a good moisturizer or hydrating primer that contains ceramides to restore the skin’s barrier. I also love using a cooling eye gel (Peter Thomas Roth Cucumber De-tox Hydra Gel Eye Patches is a favorite) to de-puff and refresh the under-eye area.”

Q: Speaking of under eyes, I feel a little perplexed when it comes to concealers. There are so many different formulas and techniques, and it’s hard to know what won’t settle into creases.
“As you age, less is more when it comes to concealer. Focus on applying it only where you see shadows — typically just a hint directly under the inner corners of your eyes where dark circles are most visible, and a little on the outer edges to lift the eyes. Avoid taking concealer all the way under the eye or using the ‘triangle’ method, as that can be too heavy and settle into lines, making the area look creased and cakey. A concealer brush is nice for precision if you have one but fingers work great for blending creamy textures like Bobbi Brown Corrector Sticks, as the warmth helps them melt into the skin.”

Q: I’ve never been into heavy foundation, but sometimes it’s nice to have a little more coverage for special occasions. What’s in your kit right now?
“I always recommend using lightweight, hydrating foundations that don’t settle into fine lines. I’m loving Haus Labs by Lady Gaga right now — their foundation offers great coverage without feeling heavy, and it’s designed for all ages. The key is to focus on a radiant, dewy finish rather than matte. Finish with a touch of highlighter on the high points of your face to enhance your natural glow.”

Q: Love that tip! I’m a recent convert to highlighter, specifically the RMS Beauty Luminizer in Champagne Rose that comes in a creamy pot. Let’s move on to eye makeup. What are the do’s and don’ts?
“Avoid overly heavy eyeliner or eyeshadow, which can make eyes look smaller. Instead, focus on lighter, more diffused shades. If you’re in the market for a palette, the Makeup by Mario Master Mattes palette is perfection. Charlotte Tilbury palettes are a go-to for a soft neutral look with a hint of shimmer without being too much. When it comes to sparkle, a fine shimmer is best — it’s more elegant and flattering. Avoid chunky glitter, as it can highlight texture. I love a good creamy liner like Rimmel London Scandaleyes; it’s pigmented but easy to blend.”

Desirae’s picks for makeup musts for holiday (or everyday).
Desirae’s picks for makeup musts for holiday (or everyday).

Q: What if I decide to opt for a bright lip? What’s the secret to picking the right shade and ensuring the color stays put?
“For the perfect bright lip, choose a shade that complements your undertone — warm reds or berries for warm skin tones, and cool pinks or blue-toned reds for cool undertones. I always recommend using a lip liner to define the lips and prevent feathering. (I love Maybelline Color Sensational Shaping Lip Liner — it’s long-lasting and smooth.) A great trick for staying power is to blot your lipstick with tissue, then reapply a second layer. One of my favorite long-wearing formulas is MAC’s Retro Matte — it lasts all day and gives a bold pop of color.”

Q: Powder – yay or nay? How do you make sure your makeup lasts the night?
“For powder, it’s a cautious yay. I suggest using powder sparingly and only where needed, like the T-zone, to avoid dulling your natural glow. To make your makeup last all night, use a good setting spray. Urban Decay’s All Nighter is one of my favorites — it locks everything in place without making your skin feel tight or dry.”

I love Desirae’s take that there are no makeup rules per se — just techniques that can help products sit nicely on your skin and photograph in the most flattering way. I’m eager to try some of the products she recommends including a setting spray, which I’ve never used before. Fingers crossed it keeps my concealer in place until it’s time to turn off the Christmas lights, wash off the day with a nice oil cleanser, and crawl into bed cherishing all the new memories.

Give Austin-based pro makeup artist Desirae Cherman a follow on Instagram — I particularly love her portfolio of ideas for fresh skin and pops of color.

Cheers to looking and feeling your best,
Susan Campbell
Founder & CEO, Phosis

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